Thursday, 18 August 2016

Mystery from Amman solved over Facebook


There are lots of things not to like about the social media age, but this is one of the things I love...
I took this photo of some Arabic writing painted onto a wall in Amman, Jordan and promised myself that I'd find out what it meant. Knowing my friend Natali has been learning the language, I asked for her help on Facebook. She enlisted the help of another Arabic speaker and within an hour of posting, I had a translation.

This is what it says:
The winds blow as our ship moves, we are the winds and we are the sea and the ships, he who goes after something with his will, finds it even if demons and constraints fight him, so aim at the highest of things and you get it, the wind blows the way the ships want it to.
- Translated by Lara El Mouallem

I'm so pleased to get the translation, as it's such a beautiful sentiment and expresses how I feel about travelling so perfectly. Amman was such a lovely, colourful and friendly city, which I would recommend to anyone wishing to explore a corner of the Middle East.

Thursday, 4 August 2016

Top tips for surviving La Tomatina



August is upon us, which can only mean one thing for the intrepid traveller looking to tick a major festival off their bucket list - La Tomatina. While this crazy Spanish festival in the small town of Buñol is incredible fun, it's worth working out all the logistics in advance to ensure you have the best possible time.

I'm aware that I sound like somebody's mother (possibly yours), but do the planning in advance and you'll have a much more relaxing time when you get there. After attending in 2015, these are my top tips for La Tomatina.

Don't take valuables with you

This is the most important piece of advice of all, as I have heard lots of reports of people having things stolen at La Tomatina and even some experience of my own. While standing in the crowd just out of the scrum where participants were trying to topple the ham, I saw an American guy who had been getting involved come out and put his hands in his pockets. "My wallet and phone are gone. They've taken my wallet and phone" was his shocked response. This was before a single tomato had even been thrown.

Later on, during the fight, I felt the GoPro that was strapped to my head being grabbed. Luckily, I managed to get it back, but it was pretty touch and go.

My advice is to take as little with you as possible. For me that meant no phone, no purse and no camera. I just had a few euros tucked into my bra to buy something to eat and drink. I brought the GoPro with me for work, but if you can avoid it all the better. Either attach a camera to yourself securely or opt for an old one that won't be expensive to replace, if capturing the moment for prosperity is important to you.


Take a tour

That leads me onto my next piece of advice. Taking a tour is a really great idea for La Tomatina, as it means that you don't have to worry about getting yourself to and from Buñol or take any extra money, train or bus tickets with you. It's also really handy to be able to leave items on the bus to keep them safe.

Choices in terms of tour operators are plentiful, but it depends on what you want to get out of it. Some companies, such as Busabout and Fanatics offer multi-day trips if you are looking to make new friends and explore more of Spain as part of a group. We went with Festivals All Around, as they do a single-day tour from Valencia, allowing us to plan the rest of our trip ourselves.

All of the tour companies seem to offer the basics, such as transport to and from Buñol, entry into the festival (it is now ticketed to restrict numbers), a T-shirt and some booze. It's a good idea to compare what's on offer and prices to get a deal you think will suit your needs.




Go down into Buñol town as early as possible

While there was an abundance of sangria on offer when we disembarked the bus in Buñol, we had a quick cup and then headed down the road to the centre of town quite early on. This proved to be a great move, as we could scope out a good spot and see the pre-fight shenanigans, which were already underway.

Traditionally, the tomato fight starts when the ham is toppled off the greasy pole that is set up in the town square. In reality, the fight begins at 11am regardless of whether the ham is still in place or not. It's a good job really, as those trying to bring it down in 2015 never quite managed to organise themselves into the structure required to reach the ham.




Don't drink too much

There are a whole load of reasons why drinking too much at La Tomatina is a bad idea. For a start, you want to be as in control of yourself as possible. It gets really squashed in the streets, so you want to be able to keep yourself upright. Secondly, it would be a shame not to remember this incredible experience. Thirdly, and most importantly, there are no public toilet facilities down in the town. Pee at the last portaloo you see before going into the battle area and don't expect to come back out until it's all over.

Buy cheap, enclosed shoes you don't care about

The decision of what to wear on my feet for La Tomatina was something I agonised about at length. I generally take a pair of flip flops and some walking shoes on my travels, which between them cover most eventualities. The problem with La Tomatina was that I thought enclosed shoes were a must, ruling out my flip flops, and didn't really want to stain my nice North Face walking shoes for the rest of their usable life.

So, once in Spain, we set off in search of one of those small shops that sells everything. Here we found pair of pumps for about €5 that could get as much smashed tomato on them as they liked without any worries. This approach had the added benefit of not having to fit them in my luggage. Win-win.




To goggle or not to goggle, that is the question

We each had a pair of goggles to wear at La Tomatina, but quite soon found they steamed up, so we took them off. As a result, we got plenty of tomato in ours eyes and found that a gungey yellow substance kept coming out of them for a few days. I'm not sure what the ideal solution is to this, but you may want to weigh up the options.

Know what to expect

The streets of Buñol are narrow and everyone is packed in tightly, so expect to be squashed. There are banners placed over the roads to indicate where the trucks loaded with tomatoes are due to stop and it's a good idea to be positioned near one of these in order to get first dibs on the ammunition. The fight lasts for one hour, but it's amazing how quickly it goes. The chances are La Tomatina will be like nothing you have ever experience before, so embrace it and have fun.

Allow yourself to be hosed down by the friendly locals

It's wonderful to see how the locals really embrace the crazy people who come to their town each year to throw tomatoes at each other. Many of them keep a safe distance and watch the drama unfold from their balconies. Others take to the streets after the battle has ended and help with the clear up operation. Many stand with hosepipes and will help to rinse you down. While this won't get you completely clean, it will help to get much of the excess tomato pulp off you.

Sit a while in the sun

Once you've been hosed down, find somewhere to sit in the sun and dry off. We opted for a lovely spot up by the castle. Not only did this make us a lot more attractive prospect for getting back on the bus, but it also gave us some time to reflect on the crazy experience we'd just had. We still got back to the bus in time for the return journey to Valencia.



Check out the footage I shot in this video on my company blog here

Thursday, 28 July 2016

The well-fed pescatarian loves festival food

The music may be the headline act of this summer's festivals, but the food also deserves an honourable mention. After all, it's the army of food trucks that keeps us going through the muddy times and the late night munchies, filling our festival experiences with flavour.

Anyone who has read my bucket list will know that going to Glastonbury has been high on it for a long time and this year it was finally achieved. One of the (many) fantastic things about the mother of all British festivals is the variety of food on offer.

Here is a selection of the well-fed pescatarian's top eats from Glasto. Look out for these fab vendors at other festivals throughout the summer. ¡Buen provecho!

Burritos



Burritos are a great festival food for pescatarians, because they are so tasty, really fill you up and aren't too hard to eat if there's nowhere to sit down. For me, it's all about the extras - the guacamole, sour cream, cheese and jalapenos - which really make it a fab festival meal. You can even wrap 'em up and throw them in your bag if you're planning on camping out at a stage for the duration.

There were several Jumping Bean Burrito stalls at Glastonbury, including one up at the GlastoLatino stage, which seemed appropriate. The nachos were a great pick-me-up after a bit of salsa dancing on the Thursday night too.

Crepes and galettes


You can't beat a crepe at a festival, or even a galette, as apparently that's what savoury crepes are called. It's easy to sate most of your hunger cravings in this way, as the selection of fillings on offer is immense. Over the course of the festival I indulged in both sweet and savoury options, with a sundried tomato, mozzarella and fresh basil galette going down very well. I returned to the extremely friendly girls at Happy Crepes for a white chocolate, fresh strawberry and pistachio crepe later in the festival.

Potted crayfish on toast


Probably the best thing I ate at Glastonbury was the potted crayfish on toast, which certainly saw to my seafood needs. Not only is the food served up by Crayfish Bob absolutely delicious, but it is doing a very important job for the environment here in the UK.

The American Signal crayfish was introduced to British waterways with the idea that they could be exported to the Scandinavian market. Instead, it has become a pest and is responsible for wiping out many native species. It is these American crayfish that are used in Bob's creations, helping to rid our rivers of them. It's a win-win situation for the hungry pescatarian and the environment!

Loaded wedges


The prize for the best value food at Glastonbury has to go to the wedges, as these bowls of seasoned and fried potatoes loaded with all sorts of tasty toppings were not only cheap, but plentiful and filling. A nice spicy bean concoction on top really did the trick, although cheesy wedges or an accompaniment of dips are also quite tempting.

Indian wraps


On any day of the year I would pick Indian food over any other cuisine and at festivals it's no different. I've had plenty of delicious curries from various outlets over the years, with the Patak's bus being a particular highlight, and more pakoras and samosas than you can shake a festival flag at. Having been following each other on Twitter for years, however, it was time to seek out the Chapati Man and I certainly wasn't disappointed.

Located over by the Left Field at Glasto, the Chapati Man managed to cram all of the delicious flavours of India into a tasty tasty flatbread. For the well-fed pescatarian that meant chana aloo - chickpeas and potatoes cooked in a wonderful spice mix and accompanied by raita and salad - yum!

Thai food


Those who ventured across the lake that was the West Holts arena at Glastonbury were not just rewarded with some fantastic world music acts, but also delicious food. Nothing warms you up on a soggy festival evening like a steaming plate of noodles and vegetables, which is exactly what we got from Good Thai Dins.

Liquorice

Pops and I, who have festivaled together for many years, swear by liquorice as the perfect pick-me-up between acts. Having sampled a few different vendors, we particularly like Saint Valentines, which we got a taste for at Latitude in 2014, then enjoyed at WOMAD 2015 and continued the love affair at Glastonbury this year.

Importing liquorice from all over, there's every shape, flavour and style of soft liquorice you can imagine. Producing a few sticks for Pops, which I'd clandestinely bought in advance, during our night shift stewarding for Oxfam certainly cheered him up. Look out for the Saint Valentines stalls or handy little carts at the next festival you attend.

Wednesday, 23 March 2016

30 photos from 30 years of travel

Last month I turned 30 and was lucky enough to spend the actual day in the stunning Marjorelle Garden in Marrakech. Prior to going away my nearest and dearest threw me a surprise birthday party. One of the highlights of the event was the slideshow of photos put together predominantly by my dad. While the photos spanned my entire life, what became apparent was how much of it has been shaped by travel. Here are 30 of my favourites:


Namibia


England


Holding a baby crocodile in Zambia


Edinburgh


Fish River Canyon, Namibia


Pembrokeshire, Wales


Croatia


The Pyrenees


Talisker Bay, Isle of Skye


Dubrovnik


The Pyrenees


Feria de Cordoba


Victoria Falls


Costa Rica


Stone Town, Zanzibar


Namibia


Caprivi Strip, Namibia


Prague Cow Parade


Updating the Scratch Map


Vatican City


San Isidro School, Sarapiqui


Iceland


Plaza de la Corredera, Cordoba


Iceland


Wild swimming in the Pyrenees

Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon, Iceland


Morocco the first time round


Ireland


Iceland


The Pyrenees

As well as the photos, my mum did a great job of summing up my travelling career in cake form.



Tuesday, 23 February 2016

The well-fed pescatarian in Marrakech

Gratinated oysters at Chez Mado


It's not too difficult being a non-meat eater in Marrakech, as the number of tagines, falafel, humous and vegetarian pastries on offer mean there is no need to go hungry. When it comes to eating fish, there are also plenty of options. From the skewers served up in the Djemaa El Fnaa to the modern delights of Chez Mado, Morocco's hottest tourist destination has enough to satiate the appetite of even the hungriest pescatarian.


 Falafel, hummus and tabbouleh at Cafe Clock


We were lucky to be staying very close to Cafe Clock in the Kasbah area of the city and ended up eating there twice. Great Moroccan classics, served up on the roof terrace with a good dollop of entertainment thrown in. There was a jam session going on in the courtyard below during our first meal at this wonderful cafe. You may notice there's no fish in the falafel dish that I enjoyed on our second visit, but just because I eat fish, it doesn't mean I have it for every meal. Going full-veggie is also great too.

I was actually spoilt for choice with their menu, as there were loads of options open to me. As is often a good idea, I took the advice of the waiter, who spoke great English (sadly my French lies somewhat neglected under my more frequently used Spanish, and my Arabic is practically non-existent). So I tucked into a steaming hot b'stilla with taktouka sauce. This flaky pastry parcel was filled with roasted vegetables, but can also come with meat or fish, so be sure of the contents before ordering.

No trip to Marrakech would be complete without an evening dining at the Djemaa El Fnaa. For the uninitiated, this vast square, which is full of orange juice sellers by day, becomes a fantastic food market in the evening. Sit on a roof terrace at any of the establishments surrounding the Djemaa El Fnaa and you will look out across a sea of lights amid the stalls, with steam and delicious smells from the food being cooked rising up to fill the air.

It can be somewhat overwhelming to walk among the traders and try to decide where to dine. Of course, they are all making an effort to entice you in, but one piece of advice struck home as we peered at the piles of produce ready to go on the numerous grills - "It's all the same stuff; just the quality is different". So we decided we would pick a stall almost at random.

As we walked past No 95, Chez Ba Hassan, the chap trying to drum up custom said: "Ali Baba, Ali Baba" (my other half's beard had instantly won him this nickname when we arrived in Marrakech), "Hashtag f*@!%ing awesome". Well you don't get a better sales pitch than that! While he tucked into skewers featuring various unidentified meats, I enjoyed my prawn and squid skewers with vegetable cous cous.


Highlights of a delicious meal at Chez Mado


Reading a fellow travel blogger's article prior to our trip, Chez Mado was described as the best seafood in Marrakech, which sounded like the kind of experience the well-fed pescatarian could not miss. Located in the new town, we hopped in a taxi and made our way to this chic eatery. The outside has been painted in the red, black and grey colour scheme that is carried on throughout the establishment and the almost garage-like facade and curtains covering the door meant it was impossible to see inside.

Venturing through the curtains we found ourselves in a contemporary space, with a conservatory-like structure on the front. Without reservations, we were seated here, which did us just fine. And we proceeded to gorge ourselves on delicious Moroccan wine and a fine selection of seafood. While my other half had gratinated oysters to start, followed by John Dory, I enjoyed seafood soup with tasty crouton-like toasts covered in a light mustard sauce and scallops parmentiere - both of which were stunning.

I had no space to fit in a dessert, but was quite excited to see iles flottantes on the menu, as I've never actually been anywhere that you can order this legendary dessert before. I convinced my partner in crime to order it so I could at least have a taste and it was just as amazing as I'd imagined it would be. Lighter than air meringue and creme anglais with the subtlest of vanilla flavour.

Grand Marnier souffle at Le Grand Cafe de la Poste


I hadn't had a problem fitting in dessert the previous night, however. This wonderful Grand Marnier souffle was the climax of my birthday meal at Le Grand Cafe de la Poste, and yes, it was as good as it looks. You can just make out my other half's strawberry carpaccio with whipped cream in the background. This restaurant, housed in the former post office building, was a real treat. I especially loved the pomegranate-shaped lampshades hanging from the ceiling. Almost good enough to eat.

The meal I tucked into at this fantastic colonial era establishment was a combination of traditional Moroccan elements with elevated French techniques. The scallops to start had a rich creamy sauce, but were balanced on a bed of cous cous. And the prawn and monkfish tagine was perfectly cooked. All this was washed down with a few glasses of gin fizz - after all, you only turn 30 once.

Sunday, 31 January 2016

A wander through Valencia

This summer's trip to Valencia presented a new Spanish city to me and I was incredibly impressed. I'd heard great things about Valencia when I lived in Cordoba and combining it with the world-famous La Tomatina Festival gave me the perfect opportunity to explore.

What's incredible about Valencia is its stark contrast between the old and new. The historic centre is linked by the former river, which has been rerouted, leaving an incredible park, to the new ultra modern City of Arts and Sciences. It's wonderful to wander this path, taking in all that Valencia has to offer. Follow a wander through the city from its beautiful Estacio del Nord, through the old town, down the former river and ending at the City of Arts and Sciences

Inside Estacio del Nord


The train station's stunning exterior 


Carrer de la Pau 


Valencia's historic centre 


Traditional horchata shop, dating back more than 100 years






By the Mercado Central 


Inside the market


The market's central dome





Weathervane atop the market's central dome








Torre de Quart 








Valencia's crest, as seen on a manhole cover 





 Monument to the victims of the Spanish Civil War





 The Turia Gardens link the old to the new








First glimpse of the City of Arts and Sciences